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adult dogs at animal shelters may have been housetrained already and
will need only a refresher course once they leave there. House manners
can become temporarily weakened in dogs forced to live in shelter
conditions for extended periods of time. This makes it important for
new owners to be especially vigilant during the first week. Watch
for signals expressing a need to go out—sniffing, circling,
protruding rectum. Hurry him outside to a designated spot, and use
a request, such as “Hurry up, make, or potty.” If the
dog goes, then reward her immediately as she finishes. Do keep in
mind that odors from other pets in your home can trigger an initial
impulse for some adults to urine mark in order to feel at home. Until
you are sure that your new companion will ask to go outside, don’t
leave him unattended.
Establish good habits early by treating your new
addition as if he has never been housebroken before. Leash-walk
your new dog so you can be sure of when, or if, she has relieved
herself. This will help to ensure success. If you are observant
and consistent, you should be able to retrain a previously housetrained
adult quickly and with few mistakes.
Supervision: Begin by supervising your new pet at all times when
indoors. Attach her to you with a six-foot tether as you go about
your business. Or use baby gates to confine her in the same room
you will be in. Watch for signs that she needs to eliminate. (See
above) Reward your pet immediately for going. (*NOTE: Do not just
let your dog out the door and then wait until your pet comes back
inside to reward. You would then be rewarding your dog for whatever
is happening at that exact moment you have given the reward and
not for doing her business.) Save the fun part of a walk for after
your dog has relieved herself. This will become an incentive for
your dog to eliminate quickly.
Confinement: If you will be unable to provide constant supervision
when you first bring your new pet home, it is best to provide safe
and pleasant confinement. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they
sleep or eat. Proper confinements would be a portion of a small
bathroom or utility room sectioned off with baby gates or with large
cardboard boxes. Any confined area (including crates-see below)
should be only large enough for a dog to stand, turn around, sit,
and lay down in comfortably.
Crates can also provide safe and humane confinement when used properly.
Feeding in an open crate can help a dog to be more comfortable with
it at first. Don’t push the dog in or close the door. Just
let the dog eat in there.
Encourage your dog into a crate by using high value treats (especially
loved tidbits). Use these treats only with the crate. For extended
crate time, give your dog a Kong toy (available at pet store or
grocery) filled with something your dog likes—soft dog or
cat food, peanut butter, soft cheese, etc. You may also add kibble
to these soft foods and deduct the amount from his regular meal
allotment.
Do not make a big deal when you let your dog out of the crate, but
do take him immediately outside to relieve himself. Make this a
boring outing and take him directly to the designated bathroom spot.
Establish a routine: 1.) Feed once or twice daily at the same hours.
(This makes elimination more regular.) 2.) Take him out for basic
needs routinely, and do this at the very least four times daily--ex:
first thing in morning, when you arrive home, after your dinner,
before bedtime. 3.) Pick a specific place where you encourage your
dog to eliminate. (This will prompt him to go there in the future.)
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