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News
Latest News Items:
What Is Ear Tipping? -- Tuesday February 7th, 2012

Notice flat top of left ear
What is Ear Tipping? By R. Ellen English
Removing the very tip of the left ear has become a well established, consistent way for fixed feral cats to be identified. Feral cats may interact with a variety of caretakers, vets, and animal control people during their lives. Cats can live over 15 years, and if someone new takes over the care of the colony, it is an easy way for them to identify altered vs. unaltered cats. It is traumatic for a feral cat to be retrapped and transported unnecessarily because of uncertainly over whether it's been spayed or neutered. Not to mention the waste of time and money involved just because the cat was not marked in a universally recognized way.
Although some animal welfare activists complain that ear tipping is inhumane, it is performed under anesthesia at the same time as a major surgery and is certainly less traumatic than a spay or neuter.
Why not use a tattoo or microchips to identify feral cats? Tattoos are virtually unreadable on feral cats unless they are anesthetized, and microchips often fail to be detected if the cat is in a metal trap.
Giggles Gets A Medal -- Wednesday January 25th, 2012

Susan Walton fostered "Lady", now named Giggles, when she had a litter of puppies. The puppies went to Massachusetts and Susan found a fantastic home for Giggles with her friend Joanie.
Giggles just received a medal in January 2012 after she won the award for Best Therapy Dog back in August 2011. She proudly wore her medal at the hospital and one of the members of her fan club took this picture. It took a while to get the picture because there was a little girl who could not stop hugging and kissing her.
Dangers To Your Pet -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article by Sigrid Mirabella:
Many things can harm or kill your pet: other animals, disease, cars, antifreeze spills (fatal), and people who do not like dogs. Loose dogs cause car accidents. Dogs are stolen. Dogs can harm other pets, livestock, horses, and wildlife. To really take the best care of your dog, you should not allow him to run at large. Dogs trust you to take care of them and for this they will do all you reasonably ask of them.
Won’t you consider sharing your home with a needy pet?
* Look for more articles here about pets and their behavior, care and paraphernalia.
Feeding -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article By Sigrid Mirabella: An easy way to tell that you are feeding your new dog the correct amount is when you can feel the ribs but they have a small padding of flesh. Hipbones should not protrude sharply. The proper quantity of food required will correspond to age, breed type, rate of growth, activity levels, metabolism, and the size of each individual animal. Use dog food labels suggestions as basic guidelines.
Many new caregivers are not sure how often to feed. I recommend that pups from 7 weeks to 5 months old be fed 3 - 4 times daily. By 6 months old, cutting back to twice daily is usually good. Although it is fine to feed adults over 12 months only one meal per day, I think it is healthier to be fed twice daily for many dogs. This decreases the chance for a condition known as bloat. Bloat (gastric torsion) is a common problem in large or giant breeds, but it is know to affect small breeds, too. Bloat can occur after a large meal, gulping water quickly, or too much exercise immediately after eating. It is painful, sometimes fatal, and generally avoidable. Here is a link with more information about bloat: http://www.amarillospca.org/dogcare.html#GastricTorsion
About foods:
Check the protein on the label. With high quality protein (true meat sources like chicken, beef, etc) as the main ingredient, less food will be needed to supply necessary nutrients. Also, superior, more digestible proteins will mean less clean up for you later—fewer poops, that is.
Look for a specific meat (chicken, lamb, beef, etc.) to lead off the ingredient list. The very best dry kibble will have a list that begins with either fresh chicken, lamb, beef, etc, and will be followed by a specific dry ground meat meal. Reject protein labeled as just “meat”—these can be rendered from unsavory meat sources. Canned foods are fine, although you are paying for the high moisture content—water. Many dogs do well on home diets and on the currently popular raw diets. When feeding a soft diet, it is a good idea to also provide your dog safe bones, chew toys, or treats to encourage healthy teeth and gums.
Your dog/puppy can grow and thrive on any balanced diet designed for it’s age, but housebreaking will likely be easier when feeding a food with a high quality protein as the main ingredient. When corn and other less digestible products are listed first on the label, it will mean that more roughage will pass through the system creating more and bulkier stools.. Dog food link-- http://www.doberdogs.com/menu.html *Look for information about foods, including raw diets, and feeding in future articles.
House Training Adult Dogs -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article By Sigrid Mirabella, "House Training Refresher for Adult Dogs":
Many adult dogs at animal shelters may have been housetrained already and will need only a refresher course once they leave there. House manners can become temporarily weakened in dogs forced to live in shelter conditions for extended periods of time. This makes it important for new owners to be especially vigilant during the first week. Watch for signals expressing a need to go out—sniffing, circling, protruding rectum. Hurry him outside to a designated spot, and use a request, such as “Hurry up, make, or potty.” If the dog goes, then reward her immediately as she finishes. Do keep in mind that odors from other pets in your home can trigger an initial impulse for some adults to urine mark in order to feel at home. Until you are sure that your new companion will ask to go outside, don’t leave him unattended.
Establish good habits early by treating your new addition as if he has never been housebroken before. Leash-walk your new dog so you can be sure of when, or if, she has relieved herself. This will help to ensure success. If you are observant and consistent, you should be able to retrain a previously housetrained adult quickly and with few mistakes.
Supervision: Begin by supervising your new pet at all times when indoors. Attach her to you with a six-foot tether as you go about your business. Or use baby gates to confine her in the same room you will be in. Watch for signs that she needs to eliminate. (See above) Reward your pet immediately for going. (*NOTE: Do not just let your dog out the door and then wait until your pet comes back inside to reward. You would then be rewarding your dog for whatever is happening at that exact moment you have given the reward and not for doing her business.) Save the fun part of a walk for after your dog has relieved herself. This will become an incentive for your dog to eliminate quickly.
Confinement: If you will be unable to provide constant supervision when you first bring your new pet home, it is best to provide safe and pleasant confinement. Dogs do not like to eliminate where they sleep or eat. Proper confinements would be a portion of a small bathroom or utility room sectioned off with baby gates or with large cardboard boxes. Any confined area (including crates-see below) should be only large enough for a dog to stand, turn around, sit, and lay down in comfortably.
Crates can also provide safe and humane confinement when used properly. Feeding in an open crate can help a dog to be more comfortable with it at first. Don’t push the dog in or close the door. Just let the dog eat in there.
Encourage your dog into a crate by using high value treats (especially loved tidbits). Use these treats only with the crate. For extended crate time, give your dog a Kong toy (available at pet store or grocery) filled with something your dog likes—soft dog or cat food, peanut butter, soft cheese, etc. You may also add kibble to these soft foods and deduct the amount from his regular meal allotment.
Do not make a big deal when you let your dog out of the crate, but do take him immediately outside to relieve himself. Make this a boring outing and take him directly to the designated bathroom spot.
Establish a routine: 1.) Feed once or twice daily at the same hours. (This makes elimination more regular.) 2.) Take him out for basic needs routinely, and do this at the very least four times daily--ex: first thing in morning, when you arrive home, after your dinner, before bedtime. 3.) Pick a specific place where you encourage your dog to eliminate. (This will prompt him to go there in the future.)
Importance of Spay/Neuter -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article by Sigrid Mirabella:
I recommend spaying/neutering by 6 months of age. Done at a young age, this helps to avert mammary tumors, testicular tumors, prostate cancer, ovarian cancer, and infections in the uterus or prostate, and of course it prevents pregnancies. When a dog is neutered before it is sexually mature, it does not ever miss what it has never known—sex. Neutering will help make dogs less inclined to roam, less threatening to other dogs, less quarrelsome, and more interested in being with his people. A dog does not become overweight from being spayed or neutered, only from being fed too much. Links about spay/neuter http://www.hsus.org/ace/11879
http://www.spayusa.org/index.html
On The Leash -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article by Sigrid Mirabella:
My favorite collars are modified slip collars or Martingale collars; these allow the flat nylon collar to close in a limited way. This helps with dogs that try to back out of collars. A link-- http://www.sitstay.com/store/equip/collars3.shtml
On small pups, flat nylon collars work well. Best on smooth coated adult dogs are flat collars. Rolled collars work well on dogs with heavy coats because they do not matt the coat. Wide collars should be used on large, smooth coated dogs or dogs with fragile necks (Whippets, Italian Greyhounds, etc). Slip or choke collars should only be used when training, and then only if you have been schooled in using them properly—there is a right way and wrong way.
Many folks have trouble with dogs that pull on the lead. If he pulls and you follow along, he learns that pulling works. If you stop walking forward when your pup pulls, he will learn that pulling doesn’t work. If your dog has already learned this behavior, un-do it by quickly turning and walking the other way when he pulls or just stand still if he pulls. Use treats as lures. This takes a lot of patience. A great tool is the head collar, a device that is similar to a halter. It gently guides the head and presents mild pressure on the muzzle. Generally, this tool works on the most hardheaded pullers when used appropriately. Head collar link-- http://bargraph.com/gentleleader/frames.html
*Look here for articles on training and tools in the future.
Preventive Health Care -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article By Sigrid Mirabella: Heartworm is a parasite that can kill dogs, but it is easily prevented. An infected mosquito transmits this parasite. When the mosquito bites your animal, it transmits larvas into the bloodstream. Adult heartworms can cause obstruction in the lungs or heart, causing coughing and heart failure. To prevent heartworm disease, have your dog tested yearly, and then give him a monthly heartworm preventative tablet. A link about heartworm-- http://www.canismajor.com/dog/hartworm.html
An annual check-up complete with blood work is a good idea to make sure your dog’s vital organs are all functioning properly.
Keep your longhaired dog’s coat free of knots, well brushed, and clean. This will support healthy skin and discourage bacterial and fungal problems. With longhaired breeds it is advisable to trim the hair near the anus and genital areas for hygiene reasons. It is not a job for a novice. Have your veterinarian or a groomer do this or teach you how. The procedure should not be expensive (about $10 or so if you do not leave your dog).
Keeping dogs flea free is not difficult in this day and age. Ticks are also a danger to be precautious of. An excellent product for fleas & ticks is Frontline. Flea link-- http://www.thepetcenter.com/gen/fleB.html *Check here for future info about fleas and tics.
Toys and Exercise -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article By Sigrid Mirabella: It is important to provide your new dog with safe toys to occupy his mind. Squeaky rubber or plastic toys, stuffed animals, and cloth toys are fine only when you are around to supervise. Buster cubes, clothe toys with removable pieces, balls emitting sounds, biscuit-holding toys, etc. are excellent ways to stimulate your dogs brainpower. Toy links-- http://www.diamondsintheruff.com/intel_diversions.html
Safe chew toys are very important because dogs need to chew. I recommend Kong toys for all dogs. These hollow rubber toys can be stuffed with peanut butter, cheese, soft canned foods, etc and they can even be frozen. They provide dogs with hours of chewing delight. Dogs left alone for extended time chew to reduce stress. Average chewers (dogs that don’t chew to bite off large pieces) are generally safe with real beef marrowbones, Nylabone products, and natural rubber toys. Aggressive chewers (dogs that chew with a purpose and can crack natural shank bones, get slivers off or can get chunks from Nylabones) need large Kong toys or Galileos (Nylabone product). Links-- http://nylabone.com/
http://kongcompany.com/
* Look for future articles on toys and games for your pets.
Keep in mind that dogs are social animals and do not enjoy being alone. Keeping a dog chained all the time without companionship would be like keeping a child confined and deprived of human companionship.
All dogs need exercise to thrive. Play dates with other friendly dogs in a fenced yard is probably the best exercise a dog could have. You can provide good exercise with minimal effort by teaching your dog to fetch a ball. Get your dog excited about the ball then throw it. Most dogs will chase a ball. If he picks it up, get excited and run the other way. You dog will likely follow. If he brings the ball to you, offer him a tiny treat (fingertip sized). He should drop the ball. Pick it up and throw it again, quickly. Soon he will get the idea, and you can fade away the use of treats. If he won’t release the ball when you ask, try using 2 balls: Throw one, let him get it, and then excite him to bring it to you. When he does, tease him with the other ball. He should drop the one in his mouth. Generally, they get the idea pretty quickly. Of course a nice brisk walk with your dog is excellent exercise, too, and it is a great way to bond and give him quality time.
Puppies should not be overworked or expected to exercise too much. Their bones are still soft and it is easy to damage them. A fun game to play with puppies is “find me”. Someone holds the pup while you hide then releases him and encourages him to find you. When he does, make a big deal of it and give him a treat. You can do the same kind of thing with the treat: hide it then encourage your pup to find it. A link for play/games-- http://www.dog-play.com/
Back to Articles and Stories
Vaccinations -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article By Sigrid Mirabella: All dogs need to be inoculated against rabies. It is required by law. Rabies is nearly always a fatal disease. Just read the classic, Ol’Yeller, to understand about the tragedy of rabies. Other basic inoculations guard against Parvo and Distemper. A Bordatella (kennel cough) vaccination may be required if you board your dog. Distemper is still a killer of many puppies and hepatitis and parainfluenza are concerns as well. Since Leptospirosis, Coronavirus, and lymes disease vaccines are controversial, your vet will tell you if they are recommended in your locale. A vaccination protocol link-- http://www.canine-epilepsy.com/Vacprotocol.html
Hard To Motivate Dog -- Saturday October 22nd, 2011
Article By Sigrid Mirabella, "Working With Hard To Motivate Dogs": You’ve read all the training books, and you’ve applied what you learned while training. You’ve used all the recommended treats. You’ve bought balls and toys to excite your dog, but nothing seems to work with your pooch. When you take him out for training exercises, the dog just isn’t motivated. You wonder, are you a terrible trainer? Maybe the first owner ruined your dog somehow. Maybe your dog is an idiot! Don’t throw in the towel, yet. The problem you are facing is not likely to be any of these things. The simple truth is that you have probably been “blessed” with a dog that is not highly food, voice, or object motivated. Often these dogs respond inconsistently to incentives. But, there is hope. Abbreviated training sessions and finding the key to your dog’s motivation will make a difference.
The first step toward success is understanding what makes your particular dog tick. One thing that we admire about dogs is their intelligence and their ability to reason through problems. These same qualities can sometimes make them difficult to train using traditional methods—long repetitive drills or force.
For breeds or mixed breeds that have terriers, sporting dogs, herding dogs, or hunting dogs in their backgrounds, what could be more important than unraveling the scent of squirrels in the grass or exploring the whizzing movements of kids at play in a field? —Certainly not obedience work. Consider human parallels: Would you trade a trip to Hawaii for a chance to cut the lawn? After all, your reward will only be a neat looking yard. Or how about this? Think of your favorite activity. Would you rather do that or wash a sink-full of greasy dishes for the promise of a nickel-sized morsel of your favorite treat? Translated into a human context, can you see how heeling for 15 minutes or running to pick up an unimportant object for a kind word or a teensy scrap of food might seem ridiculous to some dogs? (I wonder if there is any irony here—one object to retrieve is called a dumbbell.) Though a piece of chicken may entice most dogs, to others, it is a pale substitute for a world in action around them.
Below are some suggestions based on what I have learned as I struggled with the challenges of training my own hard-to-motivate dogs:
1. Go on a quest of discovery to find all the things your dog really loves—which food, toys, touch, activities, games, and sounds. You and your dog will enjoy the hunt.
2. Use a mixed pot of games, activities, toys, touch, sounds and foods during training to keep your dog’s motivation as high as possible. Be creative. Try animal hides (from fly fishing stores), cat toys & treats, Vienna sausage, sardines, parmesan cheese, zap balls (electronic dog toy), lure games (chasing toys on string), etc.
3. Find several things that your dog gets the most excited about. Use them all as rewards. Keep alternating them; then it will always be a surprise. Even mealtimes can be an incentive.
4. Let your dog investigate what he is interested in; it’s one of the best rewards! This works well for heeling exercises. If the dog lags or forges, quickly switch direction, but if he heels for even 2 steps, reward with letting him free-sniff or explore while on lead.
5. Assess your dog’s attitude before each training session. Find what is motivating your pet the best on that day, that hour, or that minute. Don’t assume that the same thing will always work. Don’t train if your dog’s mood is not receptive.
6. Use decent sized pieces when using food rewards. Make it worth it!
7. Spend more time rewarding than training.
8. Keep training seasons short (approximately 2 to 5 minutes, but not longer than 10). This discourages boredom. 1 - 3 sessions per day seems fine, provided your dog isn’t having a bad day. Remember how long each minute can seem to you when they are unpleasant minutes.
9. End sessions as soon as you achieve some success. Success does wonders for motivation-- dog and human. Only extend sessions if your dog seems enthusiastic. (Don’t get carried away, though.)
10. Don’t be unreasonable about expectations. Limit the length of time for sits, downs, & stays. Use what you’d expect from a toddler (human) as a guide.
11. If on certain days your dog just seems unwilling, don’t train! Training battles can set you back for months and cause breakdowns in your relationship.
12. Short vacations away from all work can give dogs a more enthusiastic attitude—and that goes for the handler, too.
I hope my tips will help others who have the privilege of sharing their homes with dogs like mine—amusing, beautiful, loving and consistently inconsistent.
Sigrid Mirabella: canine behavior advisor and trainer.
Hound Dogs -- Sunday August 22nd, 2010
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Following her visit to Almost Home Pet Adoption Center, Rita Mae Brown, New York Times Best Selling Author shared some information about hounds, since there are many Hound mixes at Almost Home.
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If you like music, you’ll like hounds. They are the opera singers of the canine world, belting out their arias when they pick up the scent of their quarry. The rest of the time they save their voices. While hounds are not yappy they will warn you of intruders and are good guard dogs.
Most of the hounds you will see at Almost Home or other shelters are mixes. To help you determine more or less what you have, I will cite the following most popular large scent hounds. A scent hound follows the odor of its quarry until that line disappears. They possess a fantastic work ethic and will persist until the fox, raccoon, coyote, bobcat, bear go to ground, find safety or the scent fades. Some hunters may use scent hounds to chase deer but most of us wish they did not. If you want to chase deer use a scottish deerhound. (One woman’s opinion.)
Before describing the most common large hounds consider the qualities they share. Hounds are problem solvers. Whether they work in a pack, as a brace (a pair) or alone, they are bred to work out scent puzzles. Therefore they are highly intelligent. It’s a purposeful mind. You could train a hound to go to obedience trials but it would question why you want it to run through a tube or take a jump. Where’s the scent?
Hounds are easily house broken. Adults I have rescued have never taken more than two weeks but I am with them. They aren’t left in the house alone.
A hound can run up to sixty miles a day. Its powers of endurance are legendary. But if you aren’t hunting the hound and I doubt you will, give the animal proper exercise. They like running or walking with you and they love running with horses. No exercise means you adoptee will become fat as a tick.
Hounds are fanatically clean. Dirt offends them. A hound can come in, mud-caked, and be as clean as a whistle in an hour. If you enjoy bathing your hound, make it fun, he/she will enjoy it, too. You’ve saved the animal lots of grooming and who doesn’t like a massage when getting washed?
Unless a hound or any dog has been on its own for months, they usually get along with cats, chickens, cows, etc. If you adopt a hound, ask if it’s been living with cats. Almost Home has cats so often the canines learn to get along with them. The best teacher for an adult hound is a really mean cat.
Puppies, living with cats, learn to love them. My cats sleep on my hounds. But do make sure of what you need to do here in terms of other animals.
Hounds almost always get along with other dogs, being accustomed to working closely with them. If you have an adult dog in the house, it will take them time to become acquainted, establish boundaries. That’s true for any canine.
Hounds are not extroverted dogs. They express affection but are generally calm. Terriers dazzle. Hounds just get the job done, keep their own counsel.
If you want to watch your hound work, lay down scent. Obviously, this does not apply to a true hunting individual but so few people have country ways now. However, anyone can lay down scent (use a soaked handkerchief tied to a rope) then release your hound and follow. The benefit to doing this is you will see your pal work and he/she will feel quite accomplished.
But if you spend time with your hound, take walks, runs and those valuable rides in the truck or car next to you, you’ll have a happy friend.
Hounds live to twelve and beyond. I’ve had some live to eighteen but around twelve I often see the slowing down.
Given as many of you live in the suburbs you’ll want invisible fencing. You’d want this for any dog since it’s all too easy for a rabbit to show up, run across the road, hound/dog in pursuit and before you know it, hit by a car. All dogs benefit from invisible fencing or fencing.
Following are the most common large hounds here in Virginia:
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The REDBONE HOUND
A sleeker hound often than the Black and Tan although the old style can be boxier. They’ve come into fashion and been “beautified’. Americans always lighten a dog. If you go to Germany and see Schnauzers, German Shepards (called Alsatians there) you immediately see what we’ve done.
The Redbone will track coon and whatever else you train it to track if that is your pleasure. Their coat is astonishing beautiful, a blood bay if you think in terms of horses. When the sunlight shines on it the bright highlights jump out at you.
The Redbone likes your company, likes a task but mostly wants to hang out with you. They are very sweet. I have one abandoned and abused who found me at four months. It took him a year to trust again but he was polite during that year just very distant. He’s become a good companion, a happy dog although very watchful of strangers. Again, they aren’t aggressive but the Redbone knows who belongs on your property and who doesn’t.
They can withstand all kinds of weather and like being outdoors but appreciate that warm bed at night.
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The BLOODHOUND
Genesis, Chapter I, Verse 1. This is the best nose of all dogs. It is also a large hound, reaching up to one hundred and ten pounds.
The coat is a lovely tan, the eyes large. While ponderous, the animal moves well and is often used in rescue work. They are sensitive to correction and do best with a positive person.
You will rarely find one in a shelter. First off, they are quite expensive. They aren’t bred in large numbers and the people who own them won’t let them go. Their followers are almost fanatical about the breed.
They have lovely voices.
The PLOTT HOUND
In some ways this animal appears to be a somewhat smaller and lighter version of the Bloodhound. It’s still a big hound with a brown or tan coat with black tips.
Used to hunt bear, you find more of them now than say, thirty years ago. They are gaining in popularity because they are so good at what they do and one can follow on foot.
Their voices are deep, occasionally a light rasp will get in there almost like the hound has been smoking cigarettes.
They are fearless, but amazingly gentle with humans and like children. Most hounds do.
I did not grow up with Plotts whereas I grew up with the other types of large scent hounds as well as the smaller scent hounds. One found me years ago. Starved, not yet a year old (you can usually tell by the teeth). I restored him and whether I wanted to or not, I began bear hunting because once he picked up the line he would not relinquish it.
I became careful about where we walked. By the time he was four he understood I might run behind him for three hours but then I was done.
He also chased thunderstorms. I have no idea why. He’d stop when the storm moved out.
A Plott possesses a noble bearing but has his/her goofy moments. It’s endearing.
My fellow, Punch, lived to thirteen years. He was so gentle, so profoundly loving that when he passed even the cats mourned him, looking for him for weeks. That was seven years ago and I still miss him.
The Four Types of FOXHOUNDS
English, Crossbred, American, Penn-marydel
The ENGLISH
You’ve seen countless representations of this tri-color hound in old hunting prints, many from the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries.
They stand about at your knee, can be seventy to eighty pounds, have good bone, short ears compared to Black and Tans, etc. The skull is broader than the American Foxhound. Their nose is not as good as American Foxhounds because scent in England is so much better. It’s a moist place. I think of England as an aquarium. Nor do they have the cry because as cultivation progressed from the time of the Roman Conquest, the land became more and more open. You can see a pack of English Foxhounds, you don’t need to hear them. In America, younger, less cultivated, deep hickory and oak forests on the East Coast, you may see your hound or hounds but you’ve got to hear them.
The records for this prized breed go back centuries in England. The Irish and Scots (Breeders of the Dumfrieshire Hound, a black and tan foxhound) all have fabulous records.
For us, that begins in 1742. Thomas Walker brought over some English Foxhounds. Lord Fairfax predated Mr. Walker (I mention Walker first because he lived at Castle Hill in Albemarle County) by shipping over quite a few in 1728. De La Brooke of Maryland was even ahead of them. (It’s so hard for a Virginian to give a Marylander credit.)
The English hound has all the virtues of hounds but my experience has been if scent is bad they won’t try as hard as American hounds. I have only hunted behind two packs of English Foxhounds so take this for what it is. But the animal has been bred for better conditions than our own.
It’s an uncommonly handsome animal, very eye-catching and easy to get along with.
The CROSSBRED
A cross between the English and the American their idea was to blend the best of both. Since American hounds can sometimes be weedy this improved the bone.
While this has been going on in a desultory way since after the Revolutionary War the improvements really hit their stride in the Nineteenth and early Twentieth Century reaching a high degree of success in the last quarter. Deep Run, Farmington, Genesee Valley and many more have wonderful packs of Crossbreds. Indeed, more foxhunting clubs have this fine animal that the true American hound.
They are a bit lighter, still quite an impressive, clean-cut animal with better voice and better nose than the English.
Again, so easy to live with and play with.
The AMERICAN
To be honest, this is my hound, the one I grew up with, the one I hunt. My pack is about 75% American and 25% Crossbred for ballast.
They are sleeker, lighter, the skull is narrower. The eyes are large and emotive, usually rich brown although some can be light. There is a strain of blue eyes which show up occasionally. They are gorgeous.
The ear is not long, the feet can be smaller and ‘up”. When a hound’s feet, particularly the American, begin to let down, flatten, the hound is usually showing age.
Breeding a good foot on a hound, like breeding a good nose, takes study.
The movement of this animal is fluid, appears effortless.
They are sensitive. I think of them as the Thoroughbreds of the hound world. I do not allow harsh correction with my hounds nor people with loud voices. They aren’t scardy-cats but they remember who they don’t like and they literally will not work for them. I have seen some people bully these animals, they will hunt but ultimately they run off or develop nervous conditions.
The nose is very, very good and the cry is lovely.
My house is full of retirees and we go riding or walking together with all the other rescues. They love the cats, watch the chickens.
I find them so easy to work with but then, I repeat, this is the hound I grew up with. I know them like I know my family.
Your love and kindness is repaid tenfold by this animal.
The PENN-MARYDEL
Oh, what beautiful, deep voices they have and such good noses. They have what we call cold noses which means they can follow an old line. So many hunters like this. I don’t but that’s me. I want a fresh line.
Often black and tan, in weight a bit more like the Crossbred. They are more square than the American but not as square as the English.
If you don’t know hounds, seeing the coloring you might think it’s a coonhound but once you know the difference you will never mistake the two.
Lately, some huntsman have been crossing them to the American hound. Personally, I am wary of anything that might diminish those magical voices.
Another solid citizen, you can’t help but like the Penn-marydel.
COLOR CODING
Often hounds are described by coat especially among the night hunters. You’ll hear about Walker hounds, Trigg hounds, Birdsong, July and Maupin which are night hunter foxhounds but all would come under the American banner.
Their skulls might be broader than what mounted foxhunters see in their American packs but the night hunter hounds all have phenomenal drive.
The BLUE TICK
A white coat with blue ticks or small blue spots. It’s flashy and very easy to see in the field which is an advantage.
All blue tick hounds descend from the pack Lafayette sent General Washington in 1785. The General was considered the best horseman of his day, his rival in this being Light Horse Harry Lee. Mrs. Washington loved hunting with her husband and he was very proud of her turnout. They loved one another, their hounds and their horses; happy lives even with their heavy burdens.
The RED TICK
Same as the blue only the color is red or chestnut. You might also find some lemon ticking.
While the following colors don’t seem to be used as names for hounds you do see them. A totally red coat with a white ring-neck. These come from the Orange County Hounds, are American. First bred by a fellow in Snickersville they are fast, fast, fast and glorious to watch. Very smart.
White coats with chestnut spots.
White coats with lemon spots.
This may be more than you wanted to know.
While someone like myself studies bloodlines, observes hounds, any hounds, whenever possible, I’ve tried to stay away from most of that and give you the broad outlines.
After all, you’re looking to find a dear friend who is predominately a hound. You will at Almost Home.
Please restore an animal’s faith in humans. The love which you will get back once that is accomplished is pure. A hound’s love is forever.
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